“I believe that ultimately the more creativity is brought to bear on something, the better. Ten years ago, street style photographers were not there, and now they’re there and it’s part of the mix. People like Tommy Ton and Scott Schuman are pretty big brands that many people out in the rest of the world know. And maybe there’s some kid out in suburban Chicago who’s 16 and sees this stuff, and it ignites a dream in him. That’s great.”—Michael Hainey on Fashion Week and the proliferation of street style et al
Best knot for Drakes Grenadine tie on a Cutaway or Spread? And how can I do the dimple of the tie correctly? Thank you.
Four-in-hand or double-four-in-hand. I like to form a dimple by pinching the large blade with my middle finger and thumb, while pushing in the center of the pinched fabric with my index finger, all while folding the large blade through the horizontal pass of the knot.
Top 10 Tumblr #menswear bloggers(based on their style)?
I see a lot of great style on a regular basis, so this list is going to be incomplete (I wouldn’t classify some of these folks as bloggers, but they do have tumblrs, which I’m using as a qualifier). Based purely on style alone, which is personal and quite subjective…here’s a list (unranked):
Favorite median grey chinos or cargos in the $150-$200 range? Looking for something versatile that I can use for spring, summer, and most of autumn. The rivet chinos at Epaulet are tempting, but I like a cuff and am not a fan of that white stripe. Thank you, sir.
I would search for Incotex or PT01 on ebay. The selection is pretty decent at that price range, esp. if you’re slim and have a fairly average waist.
I just watched the Gant Rugger video of “team Americano”. These guys are posers. Yep, these douche bags have taken inauthenticity to the next level. I haven’t seen guys try that hard since those dudes on the Jersey Shore tried to calculate a tip. Nice clothes though.
Thank you for your submission - I value your opinion and appreciate your honesty. Let’s try and break this down though and examine your argument piece by piece…
You watched the Gant Rugger video…which, just to get this elephant out of the room right off the bat, is an advertisement for the Gant Rugger brand - that much we can both agree on, no? This was not in fact a home movie and I’m sure if it had been, many peoples’ opinions of the video would have been altered. That is not an open indictment of the luxurious vacation home movie genre per se, but it would have certainly painted a different picture.
Moving on, you call these gents, who happen to be friends of mine, posers, the most heart-wrenching, knife-twisting of all the high school-level insults. Now, let’s examine the actual definition of this shameword a little more closely.
Definition 1: a person who poses (who knew?). That in fact would be accurate in this situation - bonus point for you.
Definition 2: a poseur, especially a person who is trendy or fashionable in a superficial way. This is what I imagine you were after in your original statement.
Team Americano is dressed quite fashionably in the video, that much is true. You could even call it trendy, to a degree. However, where I run into difficulty is when you attach a negative connotation to the team, by adding superficial in there. This breaks down in two irreconcilable ways. First, this is an advertisement for a brand. If you call this into question, then you are up in arms against an entire industry and good luck to you my friend with fighting that battle. Secondly, you are calling into question the intentions of these gentlemen personally. However, perhaps you missed the fact that they are all attached to the fashion/menswear/style/photography/etc industry in a concrete way and were asked specifically to join this campaign by the head of the brand itself. I will not define superficiality for you, but perhaps we are working from conflicting reference material.
Your next line of reasoning includes a few jovial quips that further your disputed point about authenticity and make a pop culture reference to a program that will go down in the world’s annals as one of the greatest wastes of time ever created (Disclaimer - I wasted my time as well occasionally, and am just as upset about it as you are). Here, you have not only labelled yourself as an ardent fan of said television program (shame on you), but also debased your original sentiments with petty labeling and embarrassing name calling. “Douchebags” would be a reasonable epithet for this crew if they could individually be defined, as urbandictionary so eloquently puts it, as “someone who has surpassed the levels of jerk and asshole, however not yet reached fucker or motherfucker.” Now, I personally know these folks, and I assume you do not. That is your biggest leap of faith here and the most damning attribute of your entire statement. If you met these guys are talked to them for a few minutes about what interests them, I’m sure you’d find them to be passionate, engaging, and open - perfectly willing to discuss the things you all have in common (I assume you have some interest in menswear if you found this site). Perhaps then you would withhold overarching judgment. Sadly, that day will likely never come.
Finally, the icing on the proverbial cake is clearly your statement of finality. “Nice clothes though.” That sound you now hear is Christopher Bastin laughing heartily on his way down to the local Svenska Handelsbanken. The campaign is now a success. For that is the goal of advertising. To arouse some sort of emotion regarding the advert itself which allows the underlying product to be remembered. In this case you even fought though your steely gaze of judgment and looked past the pantomimes to realize that hey, at least the clothing looks nice. Apologies, but in this case, Team Americano came out on top.
Hey, i was wondering what your opinion is about the Apolis Standard Issue Chambray Service Blazer? It is a viable option as a casual blazer?
Not my cup of tea, but certainly a viable option. A bit too workwear-y for me personally, as the construction and fabric are very very casual. I wouldn’t know when to wear it and the lapels bother me. That being said, as a weekend or going out piece, it could work for someone.
Hey man, love the blog. Was gonna get the dark brown suede tassel loafers from Meermin but then saw they now have the model in burgundy shell cordovan. What would your preference be? Price difference of 180 euros though...
This is a tough one. I’ve actually owned tassels in both colorways and I wore the brown suedes more - they are easier to dress up or down in my opinion. Both are pretty versatile though…can’t go wrong with either.
Hey Jake, Thanks a billion. You recommended that I seek out Yewon Kim, Alex Maier, and Jeff Hilliard. Yewon and I have been emailing back and forth all night. We share so many similar interests its crazy. I emailed Alex and expect to hear back next week. I heard that Jeff and Yewon no longer work for Haberdash, but the founder and I are from the same part of town in Detroit "the suburbs" --it's a cultural thing, and so I'm expecting his response too. Thanks again man. I owe you.
“Normally a man who is fortunate enough to have his own tailor will never buy a suit made by anyone else. Your tailor is the doctor of your soul. When you have found him, you never betray him by looking for another.”—Luciano Barbera
Looking to break into the in-house marketing side of the designer menswear industry--considering all companies big and small. I'm graduating from college soon and want to live in Chicago. I know my options are pretty limited there, but do you know of any companies I should be looking at in the Windy City? Oak Street Bootmakers is on my list...I'm meeting with George in a month. Thanks for the consistency in your posts--I think your curating a great environment here.
Appreciate the kind words my friend. Chicago’s not really in my purview though - Haberdash is the only spot that comes to mind. I would ask Yewon, Hilliard, or Alex Maier.
Just wondering which brands you prefer for most of your wool dress pants for the office? I saw you had some light grey Mabitex ones that I liked. And I'm sure you've answered these Q's before but... How wide of a leg opening do you usually ask for at your tailor? Could you recommend a NYC tailor?
No worries at all. I prefer Incotex and Mabitex for trousers. They are difficult to find in the US for a decent price, but new pairs show up on ebay/sf all the time. Ovadia & Sons and Epaulet also make some great options. I usually taper my dress trousers to 7”-7.25” and my casual ones to at most a 7” opening. May be too aggressive for some folks.
As far as tailors go, I would recommend Sam Wazin over at Wazin Custom Tailor. Pricey, but the quality is second to none from my experience.
just found some levi's 501 straight-fit at a vintage market. bought them but i don't wear straight fit and would like to modify them into slimmer fit..or at least boot-cut. Do you think this is possible? I know it's not really your are of expertize -jeans - but worth a try. thank you!
Definitely possible. A good tailor should be able to slim those down to whatever specs you’re interested in. I’ve tapered a few pairs of jeans and it’s worked out great.
Where do Eton shirts rank for you? I like their denim cutaway (Nordstorm have one) and to be honest, that pricepoint is as high as I'm really able to go. Are there better shirts for a similar price or, hopefully, less?
They seem pretty nice. I don’t own any, but a good friend of mine is really happy with his. The pluses he’s mentioned to me include the solid construction, fit, collar roll, and MOP buttons. Variables that some may have a problem with include sewn-in collar stays (dealbreaker for me), darts, and less than optimal button stitching. For $200 I’d probably look elsewhere (have an affinity for the Italians - Barba, Finamore, Borrelli, etc.), but you could do much worse.
What type of shoes would you recommend for a hot summer and what do you usually wear during summer? I was wondering also what kind of shoes could I pair with short trousers, or some kinf of more "formal" shorts, because I want to stay sharp, but I don't want to boil, 'cause summers can get really hot here where I live. I apologise if I missed some of the terms, I am not a native english speaker. Thanks. P.S. A big fan of your blog, it is a great visual inspiration.
No problem - thanks for the kind words. I typically wear anything in the summer from brogues to chukkas to sneakers. For a particularly hot climate I would opt for some derivation of the loafer. I used to dress pretty preppy, growing up in the Northeast, and as such was obviously drawn to the boat shoe. As my tastes have matured that style still appeals to me, which is why I am particularly fond of the driving moccasin. It’s a little more formal than the boat shoe, but still casual enough to wear with anything from khakis to shorts. You could also consider a pair of simple unlined penny loafers, or even some Belgians. If you want boots, Alden’s unlined chukkas are good summer shoes as well. Hope that helps.