hhabilis asked: Hello, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction for a suit for a few summer I have coming up. I am 5'9 and a 34 suit jacket, and a 28in waist. I have come across a few articles saying I should try children's sizing. I am not opposed to this but I feel the cuts would not be ideal. I am looking for a slim suit that can also be worn to upcoming functions for my internship.
Check out Suit Supply. They have a full range of sizes and also do MTM. Solid value for the price.
Anonymous asked: Firstly, I'm looking for a burgundy longwing - do you have any recommendations? While researching on brands, I came across the Alden 975, the Church's Grafton and the Loake Royal. My next question is with regards to the tremendous price differential, which is in spite of what seems to me imperceptible differences. Hoping that you can shed some light on the matter!
Those are all solid choices, but their quality will vary pretty significantly. I think Allen Edmonds and Florsheim also make burgundy gunboats, which you could look into as well. I wouldn’t recommend either over the Church’s or Aldens though, as long as price is no object. I’ve owned the 975s in the past and they are fantastic - very solid construction and high quality calf/cordovan. I have a friend who swears by them and owns about 5 different pairs. However, the shape is definitely round and a bit clunky and thus, not for everyone. The Church’s are great too - not necessarily a longwing, but very similar and a good alternative. Hard to beat a triple leather storm welt and burgundy crup.
What the two aforementioned shoes lack is affordability, especially if you opt for shell. If you save up and go with one of those options, you will be buying better construction and durability, and higher quality materials (leather that will develop a nicer patina over time for example). However, if price is a concern, then the Loakes or AEs are definitely worthwhile, especially at a discount. They may not last as long, but you’ll be able to re-sole them and should still get years of wear.
Anonymous asked: Hello ! First of all I really enjoy your blog, you've done an amazing work at inspiring many people including me ever since you've started it. I'm new to menswear though and I have an issue. I'm kind of fat (6 ft 2in and 200 pounds, not all muscles) and I'm having a hard time finding sports coats or pants (jeans or trousers) that fit well. Except losing the weight, which I'm working on, what would you recommend in termes ob brands or items to pick (I really need jeans and a blazer)? Thank you
Thank you very much. You should be focusing on fit and proportions. Try and look for items that are trim but proportionate to your body. Anything too skinny will look awkward, but anything overly large will be equally bad (you’ll look bigger) - you want to find a nice balance.
I would search for straight leg jeans to start and then, if you don’t like the way they settle near your shoes, maybe apply a slight knee-down taper for a neater, more tailored look. For jackets, follow the same guidelines as anyone - start with the shoulders and chest and then make sure you can button it comfortably, but not loosely, after alterations. Focus on the drape - you don’t want it too tight around the stomach. Most brands should have your size (try Suit Supply, who carries a full range) - if you’re really serious about losing weight though, I’d hold off a little on picking up the pricier items until reach your goal. Finally, check out some pics of bigger guys like Ethan D, who is dapperer than anyone around these parts, and who should serve as a great model for how to dress well for your individual body type.
Anonymous asked: Great blog mate! Reading through your blog I understand you really like Meermin and hoping you own a few pairs from them. I was wondering if they fit true to size or do I need to size down by half or full size when ordering. I was thinking about ordering few pairs and wasn’t sure how they fit.
They are usually listed in UK sizing, so you should generally size down a full size when ordering. For instance, I wear a US10 and go with the Meermin’s size 9. However, the fit can vary by last, so I recommend getting in touch with them personally to figure out what works best.
Anonymous asked: Hey great blog. Any recommendations on khakis?
Yes, Incotex. Also good choices at various price points: Ovadia & Sons, PT, Unis, Epaulet, Club Monaco.
urbanvigilante asked: Not too sure if it's your thing, but do you know where i can get a nice panama hat for the summer? thanks.
Try JJ Hat Center in NYC.
102480 - Punched cap toe Oxford - Dark Brown Museum Calf - Olfe last - Purple calf Lining
Anonymous asked: What's the quality like on your run of the mill Zegna suit? I hear they come in levels (like Ralph Lauren), could you run through their like top of the line all the way to their lower tier stuff just so I can get a good idea what I should go after from that brand?
Zegna has historically had a bunch of different lines of varying quality and price. I can’t keep track of them all, but this is what I know personally, and people can correct me if I’m wrong.
Tops: Zegna Couture - lots of handwork, great fabrics, trim fit, very expensive. Tom Ford suits are made by Zegna to this standard.
Zegna Su Misura - Their MTM line. Very good quality overall, but the details obviously vary with your budget.
Middle: Ermenegildo Zegna - the E. Zegna line is very solid. Some handwork, full canvas, and good fabrics. Fuller fit for the American market.
Bottom: Z Zegna - not great stuff. Trim/tight fit and fusing abound. Only approach at a discount.
Anonymous asked: Add Loake to quality budget dress shoes suggestions. Consistently one of the best quality I'd get in a modestly priced shoe.
I think Loake 1880 is a quality option when you can get them for <$300.
Anonymous asked: Do you know anything about Pediwear's in-house "Professional Collection"? I'm in the market for a plain black cap toe and am not sure if I should give them a try over Meermin. Thanks for all the great content!
I have no experience with them, nor have I heard anything about them. As they are marketed as Goodyear welted and made in Northampton, they are probably manufactured by one of the lesser factories up there - Loake for example. However, they don’t look half bad for $200, and for basic black captoes they may be worth a try. I’d probably go Meermin, just because I have experience with the brand, but you probably can’t go wrong with either. Let me know if you try them out.
Anonymous asked: Would love your advice on an easy - semi-casual (I.e. no sport coat) spring/summer outfit. Thanks,
Play around with fabrics and proportions. Keep the materials light and the fit solid, and you’ll be all set.
Anonymous asked: hi jake! Love the blog and everything. Just want to see what's your opinion on this matter: What's your definition of a well-dressed individual?
Thanks much. For me, a well-dressed individual is someone who wears clothing that fits as it should, and is confident in what he or she is wearing. I obviously have my own preferences and there are clearly degrees of good taste, but with the amount of subjectivity involved in the perception of individual style, it’s impossible to distill that down to any narrow set of defining characteristics.