peacockmagpie asked: Question: do you generally get your pants tapered (assuming they're RTW) and if so what ankle width do you go for?
I generally taper all my trousers. For odd pairs I’ll float around a 7-7.25” leg opening and for suit pants, I stick around 7.25-7.5”. For the few pairs of denim I have, I’ll go sub-7”.
Anonymous asked: What do you think about fleece vests? I'm looking into something to layer over a collared shirt + sweater combo. Thanks, and very much appreciate the blog
Not crazy about fleece vests to be honest - there are many other vest iterations that would look better with that combo, in my opinion. Perhaps something quilted or down.
Anonymous asked: This might have some overlap with the anon who asked about a winter shoe for traveling, but I'm looking for two shoes - a sturdy boot for hiking, hitchhiking, and traveling that still looks decent, and a very simple, slim-profile oxford or derby that can stand up to walking/daily use. Thanks for all the good advice!
You should ask someone more knowledgeable about the hikers. I know Danner makes nice boots for example, but I’m not sure how technical they are. As for the oxford or derby, I’d recommend either Crockett & Jones or Alden ptbs in pebble or shell with a dainite or ridgeway sole.
piensactua asked: Just by chance, do you know where I can get the bandana blue jacket in one of your posts? It is actually the second picture you post of the guy.
That is Mr. Nakamura from Visvim, so it might be a custom piece and pretty tough to find sadly. The closest thing would probably be his kerchief jacket.
Anonymous asked: What kind of buttons would you recommend on made to measure shirts, those that stick out some or those that lie flatter?
I love a nice fat MOP.
Anonymous asked: For custom shirts, what's the difference between Ascot Chang and Proper Cloth? I had some Ascot Chang shirts mades that are wonderful...but they're expensive. If it's not too much of a step down in quality, I'd go with PC the next time around. What do you think?
I have no direct experience with AC, but I’ve heard from friends that the construction and fit justifies the price. However, I think Proper Cloth represents great value and I have not been disappointed in the quality of my shirts in the slightest - they are holding up great so far. Perhaps you could give PC a try and go from there? For the price of a shirt or two it’s probably worth it.
Anonymous asked: What do you think of the grenson declan chelsea boots in brown suede, and do they go with chinos? Thanks
They look nice and would go well with chinos - I’d keep the pants pretty tapered though.
Anonymous asked: Are Danite soles lame from an aesthetic point of view?
Not at all.
Anonymous asked: Hello. I have a problem that's been bugging me for years. What is a good coat for winter. I'm talking ny winter, with snow, cold and all that jazz. A down jacket that makes you look all puffy? A duffle? What's your choice and suggestion? Thanks a lot!
It depends on what you’re wearing it with really. If you’re talking about something over a jacket or a suit, then I’d wear a topcoat, peacoat, greatcoat, or what have you and get a solid umbrella. For more casual situations, I’d consider a nice parka like the Norse Lindisfarne or something from Stone Island, Nanamica, etc.
Anonymous asked: What do you think about wearing a panama hat on fall-winter season?
Probably one of those items you should leave for the warmer months.
Anonymous asked: It looks like Tom Browne has realized pithy maxim by Mies that "less is more" is not always so. Often less is just less. So now one can by a Tom Browne suit and not, as before, wonder why it should cost so much with 4/5th the fabric of most suits. Though probably it has more to do with trying to widen the customer base to make the piggy bank fill up. Anyway if I had inclinations to drop money on RTW, I'd buy a Samuelsohn (Canali quaility for less and union made) or Belvest. But I use a tailor.
Leave “Tom” alone already. Hard to compare his apples to Lesser’s oranges.